![]() I then had to get my head in there to remove the rear plastic trim and there was the problem. You can't close the top with the trunk popped and you can hardly look inside with it only opening about 10". For the next ten minutes, I prodded and poked until.voila, I hit the emergency trunk release and it popped open. With a long metal rod, I pushed that a few times to make sure it was on. Now, we were able to pull the book bag, store bag and laptop out through the front of the trunk so my daughter could do her homework! Otherwise we could not get access to the remote truck shutoff switch. We then bent the metal as far toward the front of the car as we could without breaking anything. After slicing a nice gash in my forearm on one of the razor wire "traps" that Mazda put in there, I was able to access two bolts that enter from the truck side toward the passenger compartment. Then you will be able to fully access the 3 sheet metal plates with I think it was 8- 10mm bolts. Next, on either side of car are two large plastic trim pieces that also have a few retainer clips. With my wife's help, we pulled all of the plastic retainer clips. With the PRHT, we were able to partially open the top so that we could access the area of the carpet and metal plates behind the seats. Unfortunately, it was not a bad fuse stopping the trunk from opening remotely. Look forward to anything new to come out of this. I will be following this thread but maybe not responding too much. Going away for the weekend (very bad timing) but will have to work on it when I get back. The fact remains that we will have to be able to get into the trunk to find out. It feels like the arm is locked up so you that the key is unable to turn anything. All of her school books and computer are locked in there.Īfter reading all of the ideas/advice here, I believe the last post right above mine is the culprit. Amazing.but we still can't open the trunk. He called 30 minutes later and he was able to remove it. Called a tow truck to bring the car to my house. ![]() We all tried this for a total of probably an hour. ![]() Where is the switch to enable the trunk remote again?Ĥ people tried to open this trunk or at least remove the key while it was at her HS today. Remote button is not working so I am thinking it was also disabled at some point. She also has a PRHT and the key got stuck in the trunk lock. While the tool is charging, you will see the indicator in the tool lightened up.Well, I came here to see how to fix this because it happened to my daughters car tonight. If the battery is too hot or cold, the tool will not charge immediately, but will reevaluate and when the tool gets to the proper temperature, charging will begin.įor tools with a USB charger (like Lite (7760)): ![]() If charging is necessary, so the battery can accept any charge at all, the blue lights on the tool that indicated speed will scroll while the tool is accepting a charge. When the battery terminals in the tool make contact with the charger, the tool will evaluate the state of the battery. All of those signals will show up on the tool. On the charger itself, there is nothing that will light up. To check that, take your tool back out of the charger, turn it on and see what color the fuel gauge light is. Keep in mind if the charger detects the battery is fully charged, the indicator lights on the charger may cycle through quickly and it will look like your battery is not charging. This will keep the air flowing through the tool without generating additional heat from the application.įor tools with separate battery charger (not usb charger), like the one for the 8220: If you find the tool is really warm when you go to turn it off, consider letting to run for a minute with no contact on the material. Having full airflow through the tool is really important. ![]() For example, to complete a task like cutting, you may be running the tool at 35,000 rpm, contacting a material that gets hot easily – like metal, and there's a lot of heat being generated. It's also important to consider what you're doing. If you're holding the tool more like a golf club, move your hands back slightly so they're on the body of the tool, not over the vents. You may also consider the Flex Shaft Attachment – it take the weight of the tool out of your hand completely. If you're holding the tool like a pencil, consider the use of a Detailer's Grip so you have optimal control and airflow. You may actually hold the tool near those vents, but we discourage you from wrapping your hand around the tool in a way that would COVER those vents. The air that is running through the tool has to escape through those vents. The vents on the front or nose end of the tool are output vents. The vents on the cord end of the tool are air intake vents. There are reasons this could happen and some things you can do to prevent it. ![]()
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